On the first evening i really had no idea of the size of Kuala Lumpur; it seemed to be a gigantic metropolis when flying in. The density of lights staring out into the darkness of the night's sky gave this opening impression. An impression that was swiftly seconded by the taxi driver's inability to find our hostel despite us giving him an address, it makes sense that we took so long to find it walking having never visited the city but surely a taxi driver should be able to find it, no? We scurried past lizards, rats and a prostitute (who, to her credit was playing with a cat - amazing the effect that can have on my opinion of someone) and our despair was finally lifted when someone from another hostel agreed to walk us there - oh how travel relies on the kindness of strangers. This did nothing to dispel the impression of an unknowable metropolis, unnavigatable to tourists.
After the first breakfast for days (eaten only out of duty to routine - i still had no idea if i was hungry or not), in the light of day the city did not seem so large and now on returning seems only to be a small city easily navigated via the punctual and efficient underground and overground train services (outside of one there is a No Motorbikes sign which has been ignored by at least fifty bikers who seem to have made a point of parking solely around it). We have now returned to KL from Melaka in order to get a bus to Singapore and know the streets like those of our home town, well, in Chinatown where we are staying at least. Although now it is second nature taking the trains, on the first day, having asked for a train to the city centre, we were asked where in the centre. Umm, well...what do you say to that when you have no idea where you're going? I went for, "where do you think we should go?" - The lady was rather bemused - and only a little amused - at this and didn't suggest anything.
Having successfully negotiated that dilemma with the aid of a train map (when someone asks you for the city centre and there is a stop called Kuala Lumpur City Centre, how hard can it really be to send them there?!) and bypassed the shopping centre we had an enjoyable stroll about the park in the centre. It is an inextinguishable joy i feel each time i look through the rainforest-like trees to see a thirty storey building scraping the overcast sky, if only they could tear some holes in the canvas of clouds to permit us a little sunshine. Thirty storeys, however, is nothing compared to the famous Petronas Towers. Vast pillars of engineering stretching eighty-three storeys high, how long does that add to the commute to work on the top floor? And what happens if the lift is broken, who needs a cardio programme when you can work there.
Continuing around this jungle in the middle of the corporate canopy we happened on a mosque. The architecture was simple but attractive adding to the stillness (interrupted only by children playing downstairs) of the place. This was certainly a place of beauty and stillness away from the interminable buzz of the city.
Leaving the mosque that feeling quickly subsided when we encountered the 'Bosch Power Drill powered races'. Go karts powered by power tools. You could almost smell the testosterone. Sadly we decided against waiting an hour and a half for the race to begin but who knows, maybe we'll catch the World Finals in China (yes that's right, this was only the qualifying round to represent Malaysia). Or maybe not.
If you fancy reading non-travel stuff i have a selection of poetry and discussions on gender, identity and eco-graffiti amongst other topics at alexleclez.blogspot.com
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